So the Blackhawks won. Neither Tricia or myself can claim to be real fans, but the last game was certainly enjoyable to watch. If I didn’t say this in the last post, we really enjoyed our time with Brandon – what a terrific host!
After a scenic five hour drive from St. Louis, we crossed the bridge into Memphis and immediately noticed two things. The first was an immense pyramid off to the left of the bridge. We were told later that it was originally designed to hold concerts and sporting events, but that it now holds much of the city’s homeless population. The second thing we noticed was the sporadic downpour of rain that fell from a sunny sky. I couldn’t help but sing Marc Cohn’s “Walking in Memphis”: Touchdown in the land of the Delta blues, in the middle of the pourin’ rain… Before we knew it, we had arrived at the P & H Café.
The P & H was a dive’s dive. It was the kind of place that only served beer, so patrons brought their own hard liquor. It was the kind of place that hadn’t been informed about the invention of the toilet seat, the kind of place where The Fly II was playing on a faintly-colored 28-inch television to an entranced bar audience, the kind of place where cockroaches made themselves at home. This was Memphis at its finest.
After much coaxing over e-mail and after getting nowhere with a phone call, we hadn’t exactly figured out when the show was supposed to start, but we had been told that load-in was anytime after they opened at 4PM. So we walked in around a quarter after 4, me with a Jack Daniels shirt and Aviators and Tricia with a summery dress and an amplifier that seemed to furnish the place well. In fact, one roach found the amp quite accommodating; after the show, the little bugger crawled out of it and charged at me across the asphalt, leaving me with one option and one option only: to stomp on it in a zealous fury. Before I start receiving threatening e-mails from PETA, I’d like to reiterate that I had no choice. The thing was like Gregor Samsa on steroids.
Anyway, we entered the place and were greeted by the bartender, Josh, who tacked “brother” on the end of every one of his jovially-delivered sentences. ”You can just put ‘em up on the stage, brother… Oh yeah, no problem, brother… Alright, catch ya later, brother!” It was our first dose of Southern hospitality (something we’d encounter a lot more throughout the night), and I truly felt welcome. Even though I wouldn’t venture to wash my hands in the bar’s bathroom, I secretly enjoyed being in the place. I thought, this is where people come to surround themselves with good people and have a good time (or to continue a life of desperate alcoholism).
After dropping off our gear, we headed off to the famous Beale Street, which was lined with seemingly identical barbecue joints, each with a decent blues band and some kind of sign claiming that its BBQ was third best in the world. After watching some kids perform acrobatics in the street, we headed into a place called The Pig on Beale and ordered some smoked chicken, baked beans, and coleslaw. It was no Black Dog, but it was pretty good.
After another downpour, we stopped by a small café called Java Cabana, which had some interesting décor, some crappy tea, and some wi-fi. Sorry I don’t have an adjective for the wi-fi… We were just settling in when musicians started funneling in just in time for the start of the café’s open mic. The first act was a poet whose voice resembled David Sedaris’. It’s too bad his wit didn’t do the same thing. We left as soon as the first musician started playing and realized that we didn’t miss open mics very much. They’re just plain awkward.
We returned to the P & H and discovered that there was an additional band on the bill that we hadn’t known about: The Itchy Hearts. They were confirmed, but the venue said otherwise once they got there, even though they had the e-mail to prove it. If that wasn’t enough, the venue had a poster on the wall about the show that the band had sent in the mail. I won’t get into how bad the communication was with this particular talent buyer, because I’m pretty sure it’s clear already.
Tricia kicked things off and informed me afterwards that she had seen cockroaches crawling around on stage while she was playing. I decided to close my eyes for my set, and it served me well.
The Itchy Hearts took the stage next. My best description of the quartet from Richmond and Brooklyn is that they’re a punk-infused, Irish-tinged folk-rock band with rotating vocalists. While watching their set, I couldn’t help but think that if Dr. Manhattan had spent a little more time down South, they might have turned out similarly, and that’s a good thing. But upon listening to The Itchy Hearts’ fantastic new album “Do Ya Best,” I realized that my comparison may have been a little ham-handed. Either way, their set was a lot of fun, and they were great guys to hang out with. So hopefully we’ll run into them again sometime.
Nashville’s Pineapple Explode followed with an introspective set of art folk, and they seemed to be off in their own world while performing it. The song I captured below was probably my favorite of the set. We didn’t talk much with them, but they told us they were just embarking on a five or six week North American tour. Good luck, guys and gal.
Holly Cole was supposed to be the local act on the bill, but because of the aforementioned poor communication with the talent buyer, she wasn’t actually informed that she was on the bill… In spite of that, she borrowed my guitar and sent her talented violinist out to the car to fetch her instrument. The two played a captivating unplugged set for our table as Pineapple Explode tore down in the background. It was the perfect end to a not-so-perfect (but nonetheless fun) show.
Did I mention that the people in Tennessee were extremely friendly? We met some awesome people at the P & H who talked to us at length about Memphis, and they couldn’t have been more welcoming. They made us sit at their table. Try finding people like that in Chicago.
After the show, we drove to Nashville with the help of two caffeinated 69-cent 32-ounce Mega Gulps from a local gas station. We arrived around 5:30 AM, more than ready to hit the hay.
That’s all for now. Coverage of Nashville and Champaign will be a-comin’ soon.…
-Carl
Spinning during the drives to Memphis, Nashville, Champaign, & Grayslake:
Billy Bragg & Wilco – Mermaid Avenue
Tegan & Sara – The Con
Ben Sollee & Daniel Martin Moore – Dear Companion
Dylan Sneed – No Worse for the Wear EP
Sean Renner – Sekhmet
Death Cab for Cutie – Narrow Stairs
Spoon – Gimme Fiction
The National – High Violet
TV on the Radio – Dear Science
Okkervil River – Don’t Fall in Love with Everyone You See
Iron & Wine – Around the Well Disc Two
Band of Horses – Everything All the Time
Nathaniel Rateliff – In Memory of Loss
The Itchy Hearts – Do Ya Best
My Dear Alan Andrews – Ethos
Broken Social Scene – Feel Good Lost
The Snake the Cross the Crown – Cotton Teeth
A.A. Bondy – When the Devil’s Loose
Kings of Leon – Because of the Times
Wolf Parade – At Mount Zoomer
6.16.10 – Indianapolis, IN – Melody Inn
3826 North Illinois Street, 46208
9:00 PM; $5 cover
w/ The Bonesetters; Holy Ghost Canyon; Christian Taylor & Homeschool
6.17.10 – Kalamazoo, MI – The Strutt
773 West Michigan, 49007
9:30 PM; $5 cover
w/ Taylor Clark; Benjamin Riley; Spitzer Space Telescope










































